Segovia: City of Culture and Mystery

Segovia: City of Culture and Mystery

In Spain there are many great cities. But there is one city whose mysteries, epic monuments and artistic legacy make it a necessary destination for those with a true passion for art, history and mystery. The city of Segovia is situated atop a steep promontory at the confluence of two rivers in the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon in the heart of Spain. I had the privilege of living there one summer about ten years ago, and since then, it has remained my favorite city in the entire world.


Upon arriving to the city, the senses are confronted by the sight of a magnificent Roman aqueduct that attests to the ancient origins of this city with roots that span more than 2,000 years. Hiking out into the surrounding countryside provides the best panoramic views of the city. From there you can see the protective wall called a muralla that surrounds the oldest district of the city as well as the beautiful 16th century cathedral that dominates the skyline. Of course, no ancient city is complete without a castle. Segovia’s fortress is called the Alcazar and is among the most beautiful and famous fortresses in all of Spain.


It’s possible to see many of Segovia’s great monuments in a single day, but she is not to be treated like a fast food restaurant. Take your time in Segovia and stay awhile. Her true value is found among the people who share her fascinating history and unique culture. Segovia has always attracted and produced creative individuals, establishing an authentic atmosphere where antiquity forms the backdrop for the bohemian and avant-garde. In fact, several prominent art schools and universities exist in Segovia that follow a long tradition of scholarship and artistic development. Naturally, art exhibitions are held in the many distinguished venues. Segovia is a city where every type of art, artisanry and performing art flourish, making it a center of creativity. It’s also worth mentioning that the city is host to the City of Segovia Festival of European Cinema—an annual film festival held in the Fall—and an international marionette festival called Titirimundi.



Aside from her bohemian charm, there are countless mysteries and legends that hide around every corner and plaza of the city. Perhaps the most enigmatic site in Segovia is the 12th century Church of the Vera Cruz known by locals as “el Templario,” which is believed to have been founded by the Order of the Knights Templar. For ghost hunters, Segovia’s ancient and obscure past make it a first-class destination for paranormal research.


One of the most endearing aspects of Segovia is that the city has a genuine character. It doesn’t put on a shallow display for tourists. Instead, it maintains a distinct culture that is dignified and authentically Castilian. For this and many other reasons, I miss Segovia. Too much time has passed since I went for an afternoon “paseo” on her streets and enjoyed “una copa” in the Plaza Mayor with friends. As a videographer, I’d like to return to Segovia to document the myths and legends attached to the sacred and ancient monuments throughout the city. Of course, I’ll have to postpone the documentary if it interferes with my training as a bullfighter and my flamenco guitar lessons. What can I say? I should have been born a Spaniard. What about you? The only way to find out is to go. Hasta luego.











En Español

En España hay muchas maravillosas ciudades. Pero hay una ciudad cuyos misterios, los monumentos épicos y la herencia artística lo hacen un destino necesario para aquellos con una pasión verdadera de arte, historia y misterio. La ciudad de Segovia, está situado encima de un promontorio escarpado en la confluencia de dos ríos en la comunidad autónoma de Castilla y León. Yo tuve el privilegio de vivir allí un verano hace aproximadamente diez años y desde entonces ha permanecido mi ciudad favorita en el mundo entero.

Al llegar, los sentidos se enfrentan por la vista de un magnífico acueducto romano que certifica los antiguos orígenes de esta ciudad con raíces que extienden más de 2000 años. El excursionismo a pie en el campo circundante ofrece las mejores vistas panorámicas de la ciudad. Desde allí puede ver la pared protectora llamada la muralla que rodea el distrito más antiguo de la ciudad, así como la hermosa Catedral del siglo XVI que domina el horizonte. Por supuesto, ninguna ciudad antigua está completa sin un castillo. La fortaleza de Segovia se llama el Alcázar y es uno de los castillos más bellos y famosos en toda España.

Algunos viajeros intentan ver la mayor parte de los grandes monumentos de Segovia en un solo día. Pero no se apure. Quédese un rato. Segovia no debe ser tratada como un restaurante de comida rápida sino uno de cinco estrellas. Quédese por un tiempo. Su valor real es encontrado entre la gente que comparte su historia fascinante y cultura única. Segovia siempre ha atraído y ha producido a individuos creativos, estableciendo una atmósfera auténtica donde la antigüedad forma el telón de fondo para una movida, escena y panoramo de vanguardia.

De hecho, varias escuelas de arte y destacadas universidades existen en Segovia que siguen una tradición centenaria de beca y desarrollo artístico. Naturalmente, se organizan exposiciones de arte con frecuencia en los distinguidos lugares de la ciudad. Segovia es una ciudad donde cada tipo de arte y artesania, así como las artes escénicas hacen que sea un centro para cada tipo de creatividad. La ciudad alberga incluso su propio Festival anual de cine europeo y un festival internacional de marionetas llamado Titirimundi.

Además de su encanto bohemio, también hay innumerables misterios y leyendas que se esconden en cada esquina y la plaza de la ciudad. Incluso hay una serie de túneles subterráneos que conectan varios edificios de la ciudad. Para mí esto es el cielo. Quizás el más enigmático lugar en Segovia es la Iglesia de la Vera Cruz fundado en el siglo XII. Conocida por los lugareños como “el Templario” fue construida por la misteriosa orden de los Templarios. Para los cazadores de fantasmas, el pasado antigua y oscura de Segovia hacen un destino de primera clase para la investigación paranormal.



Otro aspecto entrañable de Segovia es su carácter genuino. A diferencia de otras ciudades, Segovia no da una pantalla artificial para turistas o intentar ser algo que no es. Al contrario, Segovia mantiene una cultura distinta que es digna y auténticamente castellana. Por esto y muchas otras razones a Segovia la echo de menos. Ha pasado demasiado tiempo desde que he dado un “paseo” por la tarde en sus calles o disfrutar una copa en la Plaza Mayor con mis amigos. Como un videógrafista me gustaría volver a Segovia para documentar los mitos y leyendas relativas a los monumentos antiguos y sagrados en toda la ciudad. Sin embargo, voy a tener que posponer el documental si interfiere con mi formación como un torero y clases de guitarra. ¿Qué puedo decir? Yo debería haber nacido un español. ¿Y tú? La única manera de averiguarlo es ir. ¡Hasta luego!









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The Mysterious Black Fox Camp Springs of Murfreesboro Tennessee

Whilst checking out a book called Indian Trails of the Southeast  I discovered that two ancient Native American paths, the Creek War Trace and the Nickjack Trace intersect just down the street from my house. I then discovered that where these trails converge is a place called Black Fox Camp Springs named after the famous Cherokee Indian Chief . It's a beautiful patch of swampy wetland and forest which is the former site of Black Fox's hunting camp. This is the spot where he made his legendary escape from Major James Ore's force of militiamen who were part of the Nickajack Expedition en route to attack the Chicamauga towns of the "Lower Cherokee" in September of 1794. 

According to the story, Black Fox's men were taken buy surprise. It's said that he escaped by diving into the spring where he subsequently emerged 3 miles away at Murfree Springs. Now, either this whole story is a load of BS or there's a subterranean link between the two locations. I tend to believe the later isn't impossible based on the fact that both Springs share the same source and seem to located along the same limestone aquafer  which is essentially an underground waterway.   The question is did Black Fox actually make his escape this way? If he did travel underground  all the way to Murfree Spring it stands to reason that he was familiar with this route and that he did not swim the entire way underwater. I'm sure most people are skeptical of this legend and I can understand why. 

 I have confirmed the presence of a cave entrance at Murfree Springs. But I have yet to identify any possible entrances to any subterranean caverns at the Black Fox Camp site.  It's my guess as of today that the entrance has been covered up. This may have happened either when the nearby neighborhood development inserted a drainage pipe into the spring or when the land was altered to create "Todds Lake" which is the crappy little artificial swamp-lake that lies immediately  NW of the Spring. There is no way to know for sure whether or not he really made his escape underground. However, studies conducted in 1999 using dye tracing methods did confirm underground links in this area. At any rate, the impact of development and erosion since the late 1700's has altered the surface geology so substantially that any previously existing passages or entrances may indeed be lost forever.  

Most people in Murfreesboro have no idea that this immediate area near the springs called Dilton was actually the first to be settled by Europeans in Rutherford County. Black Fox Camp Springs and Dilton  were almost selected over the Murfee Springs location to become the center for the community's development. Overall the place has a quiet air of mystery. The area South of the Spring is one I use to get away from things when I don't have time to go far but still wan't to be alone. 
 

Black Fox Camp Spring (December 2012)

The distance between Black Fox's Camp and Murfree Springs is about 3 miles.

Back on the Nickajack - December 5th 2012

Returned to explore more of the Nickajack trace this morning and look for possible Indian burials along the banks of Lytle's Creek as well as any sign of Sasquatch activity. I haven't found any yet as it is too far from the Stones River where the majority of sightings occur.  I don't plan on digging up dead Native Americans but I'm always on the lookout for mounds, arrowheads  and other artifacts which might surface as a result of the rain.  You see this was no side street back in the day.  The Nickajack Trace/Trail is part of the larger Cisca-St. Augustine Trace which ran down to Spanish Florida via Savannah Georgia. Indians used this trail for hundreds or possibly thousands of years for travel, trade and warfare. While we associate this area with Chief Black Fox, in reality this was an important location for thousands of other natives who likely used this spot as a camp and water source.



If you are interested in finding trails like this one a good resource is Indian Trails of the Southeast William E. Myer published in 1925. 

Remnant of the ancient Nickajack Trace outside Murfreesboro, TN

My handsomely well-shaped leg sustained a pretty good gash while fording Lytle's Creek. My feet however  are not so handsomely well-shaped.

Drums along the Nickajack?: a possible paranormal incident

I have to report one incident of note that  might be attributed to paranormal activity. While exploring the area near Black Fox's old camp my partner Reagan and I heard the faint sound of  tribal drums but were unable to detect the direction of the sound. It was very strange. This happened on 3 occasions. I will be returning to take some EVP recordings at a later time.

Additional information:

 Indian Trails of the Southeast William E. Myer 1925