Midnight in the Voodoo Village

As published in the February 2012 edition of the Murfreesboro Pulse (updated for 4-2013)

Actual photo from my adventure. Note lumbering zombie in background

The lure of mysterious and sacred locations can be irresistible. One such place where many thrill seekers have ventured to get a glimpse of the mysterious is St. Paul’s Spiritual Temple in Memphis, Tenn. The infamous “Voodoo Village,” as it’s known by locals, is an enclosed community composed of colorful buildings and wooden structures, all encircled by a fence with a large, iron gate securing the main entrance. Some things visible from the inside are an African-style hut, coffins, moons and sunbursts, as well as crosses and other symbols. They don’t allow strangers inside or answer questions so information was scarce. I decided that if I wanted the truth, I’d have to get inside somehow. Granted, invading pagan temples to rescue beautiful maidens from ritual sacrifice and emerging like the hero of a 1950’s era a pulp fiction is typical of me. But in retrospect, knowing what I know today, I should have approached the matter differently. In a sense, the voodoo made me do it.

Voodoo is indeed widely misunderstood. It conjures images of zombies, animal sacrifice and exotic dance rituals performed to the sound of drums. More accurately defined it is the group of spiritual belief systems and practices brought by African slaves to plantations in the Caribbean and the Southern US. These traditions often blended with Roman Catholicism and share similar origins with the vodou religion of Haiti. It was a vodou ceremony in Haiti that signaled the beginning of a massive slave revolt in 1791 resulting in the burning of 1,800 plantations and the massacre of 1,000 slaveholders during a single week. That fateful ceremony at Bois Caïman sealed a covenant with an African deity to kill the whites in exchange for freedom and was consummated by the drinking of blood which is naturally why voodoo makes most white folks a little nervous.


Now Mama always said not to go sneaking into voodoo temples all by my lonesome. Luckily my brother-in-law Reagan Ammons, having been deployed to Haiti as a US Marine, was familiar with vodou and was equally stoked about the mission. Arriving in Memphis, we headed to Beal Street for some hot gumbo and cool Delta Blues, tasting the nightlife to set the mood before our adventure. Around midnight we left the laughter of Beal Street behind and made our way to the temple site.

Uprising at Bois Caïman

Once inside, my heart began to beat like the drum of a savage, sending adrenaline throughout my body as we surveyed the grounds for anyone who might challenge our presence. The place appeared to be in disuse. There were no zombies and no women to be rescued from the alleged den of pagan debauchery. In fact, the site possessed an air of sacredness resembling a shrine dedicated to something I couldn’t identify. Certainly, the masks and symbols displayed a bit of African influence. Also present were a lot of masonic and Christian symbolism. Under the moonlight, the temple possessed an air of sacredness and a beautiful, folky asceticism that I’ve never seen elsewhere. After taking a few photos, we made our exit.


While this adventure yielded more questions than answers, a book published in 2005 called No Space Hidden, offers more. According to the book, Wash Harris, the deceased spiritual leader of the community, “established the temple as a church and center for traditional medicine.” In the same book, which was written by Grey Gundaker, a professor of anthropology at the College of William and Mary, the temple artwork is described as a form of African-American devotional art. Adding to the confusion, published quotes by Harris state that the temple is a Christian church whose symbolism can only be understood if one is a freemason. He is also credited with saying that “God told the Black man and the Indian things that he didn’t tell others.”


There you have it. I know the PC conclusion here is that St. Paul’s Spiritual Temple is simply a group of afro-masonic Christians who build funky art and practice “traditional medicine” in secret. But I think the name Voodoo Village still sounds better and here is why. There is a strong connection between Haitian Voodoo and Masonic orders. In fact it can be said that Haitian history has been undeniably influenced by secret societies which are described in a book called The Serpent and the Rainbow (not the movie) written by ethnobotinist Wade Davis. Here is an excerpt that demonstrating this point.

"There were, according to these informants, secret societies in all parts of the country, and each maintained control of a specified territory.... Membership was by invitation and initiation, open to men and women, and was strictly hierarchical. Laguerre verified the existence of passports, ritual handshakes and secret passwords, banners, flags, and brilliant red-and-black uniforms, as well as specialized body of spirits, songs, dances, and drumbeats...

"... he described them [the secret societies -Recluse] the very conscience of the peasantry, a quasi-political arm of the vodoun society charged above all with the protection of the community. Like the secret societies in West Africa, those of Haiti seemed to Laguerre to be the single most important arbiter of culture. Each one was loosely attached to a hounfour whose houngan was a sort of 'public relations man' acting as a liaison between the clandestine society and the world at large. In fact, so ubiquitous were the societies that Laguerre described them as nodes in a vast network that, if and when linked together, would represent a powerful underground government capable of competing head-on with the central regime in Port-au-Prince."
(pgs. 211-212)


Is the Voodoo Village somehow representative of the Vodou-Masonic Connection? Many including anthropologists who have studied and written about Saint Paul's Spiritual Temple would say there is no connection. However, it;s my opinion that when dealing with what is by definition a secret society then all bets are off.

http://visupview.blogspot.com/2010/11/haitian-lodge.html

Segovia: City of Culture and Mystery

Segovia: City of Culture and Mystery

In Spain there are many great cities. But there is one city whose mysteries, epic monuments and artistic legacy make it a necessary destination for those with a true passion for art, history and mystery. The city of Segovia is situated atop a steep promontory at the confluence of two rivers in the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon in the heart of Spain. I had the privilege of living there one summer about ten years ago, and since then, it has remained my favorite city in the entire world.


Upon arriving to the city, the senses are confronted by the sight of a magnificent Roman aqueduct that attests to the ancient origins of this city with roots that span more than 2,000 years. Hiking out into the surrounding countryside provides the best panoramic views of the city. From there you can see the protective wall called a muralla that surrounds the oldest district of the city as well as the beautiful 16th century cathedral that dominates the skyline. Of course, no ancient city is complete without a castle. Segovia’s fortress is called the Alcazar and is among the most beautiful and famous fortresses in all of Spain.


It’s possible to see many of Segovia’s great monuments in a single day, but she is not to be treated like a fast food restaurant. Take your time in Segovia and stay awhile. Her true value is found among the people who share her fascinating history and unique culture. Segovia has always attracted and produced creative individuals, establishing an authentic atmosphere where antiquity forms the backdrop for the bohemian and avant-garde. In fact, several prominent art schools and universities exist in Segovia that follow a long tradition of scholarship and artistic development. Naturally, art exhibitions are held in the many distinguished venues. Segovia is a city where every type of art, artisanry and performing art flourish, making it a center of creativity. It’s also worth mentioning that the city is host to the City of Segovia Festival of European Cinema—an annual film festival held in the Fall—and an international marionette festival called Titirimundi.



Aside from her bohemian charm, there are countless mysteries and legends that hide around every corner and plaza of the city. Perhaps the most enigmatic site in Segovia is the 12th century Church of the Vera Cruz known by locals as “el Templario,” which is believed to have been founded by the Order of the Knights Templar. For ghost hunters, Segovia’s ancient and obscure past make it a first-class destination for paranormal research.


One of the most endearing aspects of Segovia is that the city has a genuine character. It doesn’t put on a shallow display for tourists. Instead, it maintains a distinct culture that is dignified and authentically Castilian. For this and many other reasons, I miss Segovia. Too much time has passed since I went for an afternoon “paseo” on her streets and enjoyed “una copa” in the Plaza Mayor with friends. As a videographer, I’d like to return to Segovia to document the myths and legends attached to the sacred and ancient monuments throughout the city. Of course, I’ll have to postpone the documentary if it interferes with my training as a bullfighter and my flamenco guitar lessons. What can I say? I should have been born a Spaniard. What about you? The only way to find out is to go. Hasta luego.











En Español

En España hay muchas maravillosas ciudades. Pero hay una ciudad cuyos misterios, los monumentos épicos y la herencia artística lo hacen un destino necesario para aquellos con una pasión verdadera de arte, historia y misterio. La ciudad de Segovia, está situado encima de un promontorio escarpado en la confluencia de dos ríos en la comunidad autónoma de Castilla y León. Yo tuve el privilegio de vivir allí un verano hace aproximadamente diez años y desde entonces ha permanecido mi ciudad favorita en el mundo entero.

Al llegar, los sentidos se enfrentan por la vista de un magnífico acueducto romano que certifica los antiguos orígenes de esta ciudad con raíces que extienden más de 2000 años. El excursionismo a pie en el campo circundante ofrece las mejores vistas panorámicas de la ciudad. Desde allí puede ver la pared protectora llamada la muralla que rodea el distrito más antiguo de la ciudad, así como la hermosa Catedral del siglo XVI que domina el horizonte. Por supuesto, ninguna ciudad antigua está completa sin un castillo. La fortaleza de Segovia se llama el Alcázar y es uno de los castillos más bellos y famosos en toda España.

Algunos viajeros intentan ver la mayor parte de los grandes monumentos de Segovia en un solo día. Pero no se apure. Quédese un rato. Segovia no debe ser tratada como un restaurante de comida rápida sino uno de cinco estrellas. Quédese por un tiempo. Su valor real es encontrado entre la gente que comparte su historia fascinante y cultura única. Segovia siempre ha atraído y ha producido a individuos creativos, estableciendo una atmósfera auténtica donde la antigüedad forma el telón de fondo para una movida, escena y panoramo de vanguardia.

De hecho, varias escuelas de arte y destacadas universidades existen en Segovia que siguen una tradición centenaria de beca y desarrollo artístico. Naturalmente, se organizan exposiciones de arte con frecuencia en los distinguidos lugares de la ciudad. Segovia es una ciudad donde cada tipo de arte y artesania, así como las artes escénicas hacen que sea un centro para cada tipo de creatividad. La ciudad alberga incluso su propio Festival anual de cine europeo y un festival internacional de marionetas llamado Titirimundi.

Además de su encanto bohemio, también hay innumerables misterios y leyendas que se esconden en cada esquina y la plaza de la ciudad. Incluso hay una serie de túneles subterráneos que conectan varios edificios de la ciudad. Para mí esto es el cielo. Quizás el más enigmático lugar en Segovia es la Iglesia de la Vera Cruz fundado en el siglo XII. Conocida por los lugareños como “el Templario” fue construida por la misteriosa orden de los Templarios. Para los cazadores de fantasmas, el pasado antigua y oscura de Segovia hacen un destino de primera clase para la investigación paranormal.



Otro aspecto entrañable de Segovia es su carácter genuino. A diferencia de otras ciudades, Segovia no da una pantalla artificial para turistas o intentar ser algo que no es. Al contrario, Segovia mantiene una cultura distinta que es digna y auténticamente castellana. Por esto y muchas otras razones a Segovia la echo de menos. Ha pasado demasiado tiempo desde que he dado un “paseo” por la tarde en sus calles o disfrutar una copa en la Plaza Mayor con mis amigos. Como un videógrafista me gustaría volver a Segovia para documentar los mitos y leyendas relativas a los monumentos antiguos y sagrados en toda la ciudad. Sin embargo, voy a tener que posponer el documental si interfiere con mi formación como un torero y clases de guitarra. ¿Qué puedo decir? Yo debería haber nacido un español. ¿Y tú? La única manera de averiguarlo es ir. ¡Hasta luego!









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